Most itineraries in Sicily cling to the coast. Head inland, into the rolling hills at the centre of the island, and you find two places that alone justify a day’s journey: Caltagirone, the capital of Sicilian ceramics, and Piazza Armerina, home to the extraordinary mosaics of the Villa Romana del Casale.
Both are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and they lie only about thirty kilometres apart. This guide explains how to combine them in a single, well-paced day.
Morning: the Villa Romana del Casale
Start with the villa, a few kilometres outside Piazza Armerina. Built in the fourth century AD, it was the country residence of a wealthy Roman aristocrat, perhaps a member of the imperial circle. Buried by a landslide and forgotten for centuries, it preserves one of the largest and most complete collections of Roman mosaics still in their original place: around 3,500 square metres of floors.
Walkways run above the rooms, so you look down on the mosaics as the villa’s guests once walked across them. Two scenes should not be missed:
- The Great Hunt, a corridor more than sixty metres long showing the capture of wild animals — lions, elephants, antelopes — destined for the arenas of Rome.
- The Room of the Ten Girls, where young women exercise in two-piece outfits so modern-looking that the mosaic is nicknamed “the bikini girls”.
Allow one and a half to two hours. The rooms are covered, but in summer the heat builds up under the roofs by midday, which is another reason to come early. For the full story of the villa, see our article on the mosaics of Piazza Armerina.
Midday: lunch in the heart of Sicily
The inland towns are the place to taste a different Sicilian cuisine, less about fish and more about the countryside: ricotta, pecorino, legumes, grilled meat and bread from wheat grown on these same hills. Take your time — the drive to Caltagirone is short, about forty minutes.
Afternoon: Caltagirone and its ceramic staircase
Caltagirone has been making ceramics for many centuries, and it shows everywhere: in the tiled balconies, the decorated bridges, the benches and above all in the workshops that line the historic centre. Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693, the town is one of the Late Baroque towns of the Val di Noto recognised by UNESCO.
Its symbol is the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte: 142 steps climbing from the lower town to the church at the top. Each riser is covered with hand-painted majolica tiles, added in the twentieth century, with patterns that change from step to step and echo the styles of different historical periods.
Climb it slowly, stopping to look at the tiles, then enjoy the view over the rooftops from the top. If you are visiting on 24 or 25 July, for the feast of Saint James, the staircase is lit by thousands of small oil lamps that form a single design — one of the most spectacular sights of the Sicilian summer. Read more in our article on Caltagirone and its staircase.
Before leaving, browse the workshops. Among the most typical objects are the teste di moro, the Moorish heads used as vases, whose legend we tell in the article on the Moorish heads.
How to plan the day
- Distances: Caltagirone is about an hour and a quarter from Catania by car, and Piazza Armerina about thirty kilometres further on.
- Order: the villa in the morning, when it is cooler and less crowded; Caltagirone in the afternoon, when the light warms the tiles of the staircase.
- What to wear: comfortable shoes — the staircase is steep and the villa involves plenty of walking.
- When to go: spring and autumn are ideal; in summer, start as early as possible.
Our Caltagirone and Piazza Armerina day trip covers the whole itinerary with transport from your accommodation, so you can enjoy the day without worrying about roads and parking.
A different combination: Piazza Armerina and Agrigento
If archaeology is your passion, you can pair the Roman villa with the Greek temples instead. The Agrigento and Piazza Armerina tour takes you from the mosaics of the Villa del Casale to the Valley of the Temples — two chapters of ancient history in one day. To prepare, read our guide to the Valley of the Temples and the Scala dei Turchi, or explore all our excursions in Sicily.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit Caltagirone and Piazza Armerina in one day?
Yes. They are about thirty kilometres apart, and a day is enough to see the Villa Romana del Casale and the historic centre of Caltagirone at a relaxed pace.
How long does the Villa Romana del Casale take?
About one and a half to two hours to see the main rooms and mosaics without rushing.
How many steps does the Caltagirone staircase have?
The Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte has 142 steps, each decorated with hand-painted majolica tiles.
Is it worth buying ceramics in Caltagirone?
Yes: the town has many workshops producing hand-painted pieces. Most are happy to ship larger items, so you do not have to carry them home in your luggage.
